Post by HotWired Customs on Jun 19, 2012 12:48:49 GMT -5
June 29th (Semi Stock Big Cars & Mowers)
June 30th (Mod Big Cars & Minis)
Sept. 22nd King of the Bluegrass
Contact Info:
Nathan Farley 270-237-1881
Dennis Harper 270-606-1123
Nicole Baker 270-234-6861
2012 Rules (except for Semi-Stock night)
Big Cars
(New or edited rules in red font)
1. Any year sedan, wagon & Imperials! No hearses, limos or checkered cabs.
2. Helmet, seatbelt and eye protection must be worn at all times. No cut off shirts or shorts.
3. Any controversies or protests must be brought up at the drivers meeting. If it doesn’t say it you can’t do it!
4. The drivers side seatbelt must be there in working order.
5. Judges decision is final! We may reject and or all entries at any time. Cars are subject to re-inspection at any time.
6. All glass, plastic, bumper covers, trailer hitches/braces and interior must be removed before arriving at the event.
7. You may weld, wire or bolt doors, trunks and tailgates shut. 3” max wide plates. Plates cannot over lap or be doubled up. A 12” by 12” hole must be put in all trunks. Trunk lids must stay in stock location. There is no wedging allowed. You may tuck the trunk but the quarter panels must be up. The can not be beat over. After inspection you may beat the trunk lid down. You must have #9 wire in windshield area!
8. No interior seam welding will be permitted. On pre-ran cars, sheet metal can be repaired back to stock only, do not add any metal.
9. Stock type hood must be used. Hoods must be open for inspection. You can tack weld, bolt or sheet metal screw the hood back together. Sheet metal screws must point down, not up. Hoods must be secured in 4 places including the all thread. Angle iron may be used but cannot be longer than 4” max, 2 bolts in each piece of angle iron.
10. You can add up to (3) 3/8” bolts in wheel well.
11. Batteries must be removed to passenger side floor board. The battery box cannot strengthen the car in any way!
12. Original gas tank must be removed and replaced with a boat type tank. Gas tanks cannot be used to strengthen the car. Gas tank protectors can be used to wider than 24”. Must have room to get my hand between protector and where rear seat sat. If it touches you will be asked to cut it completely out.
13. You can have a roll cage surrounding the drivers compartment with an over head bar. Bars must be sheet metal to sheet metal (no down kickers). Back bar cannot be further back than where the kick panel meets where the bench sear rest starts and must be 6” off the floor. Front bar must be at least 5” from the center of the firewall. Driver door bar can be inside the door; but, passenger side bar can not. Passenger side bar must stay within inside car! The bars cannot be any bigger than 4”x6”. Side bars cannot go past firewall and must stop where the bench seat rests starts. All bars will go straight across over thru or under the steering column.
14. You can run a distributor protector, NO KICKERS!
15. You may remove the front 2 mounts and replace them with 1” all thread and a spacer. It can start at the body mount, go through the core support using the all thread for hood bolts. The spacer can be 3” in diameter max. You may re-weld the eye of the mount to the frame and a 3” washer to the bottom of the mount. You can run your all thread through a piece of 2” pipe or tubing inside the core support to protect your all thread but the tubing cannot be welded to the core support.
16. Body mounts can be removed and replaced with 1” stack of washers or puck type bushing. The bolts can be replaced with ¾” bolts. A maximum of 3” washers are allowed. Bolts must be up inside the rail not out the bottom.
17. Motor of choice. It cannot have any plates, pipes or tubing going to the frame in any way. If you do run chain, 1 per side from the mount straight down to the cradle or from the front of the head to the cradle. 3/8” chain, nothing bigger.
18. You may use rear-end of choice but it must have 5 lug axles. You can run 5 lug after market read-end. Rear-end protectors are just for the rear-end and must fir tight to the rear-end. They cannot be any higher than the top of the axe tubes.
19. You may run any after market drive shaft, transmission and oil coolers. Coolers cannot be used to strengthen the car in any way. You may run after market steering but it cannot strengthen frame or body.
20. All cars must sit level within 5” with no car sitting lower than 16” from the bottom of the bumper or higher than 21” from the bottom of the bumpers.
21. Coil Springs in the rear may be welded, wired, bolted or chained to the rear-end.
22. Can have 22” hump plates except for leaf spring cars! Leaf springs must be stock length and thickness and must stay in stock position. The shackles can be home made ¼” thick max. 5 springs plus the main with a 2” stair step front and rear. 2 clamps per front and back side, you cannot move leaf springs. You cannot change from coil to leaf.
23. You can change out the new style A arms for the old ones. The A arms can be welded solid all the way around nothing wider than 2” to weld A arms, anything bigger than that you will cut frame! No ball joint protectors.
24. Tie rod ends can be changed or reinforced. The sway bar can be removed they can be modified or switched. They cannot be welded to the frame.
25. Angles for the cross member to sit on can’t be any longer than 6” and can only be welded to the inside of the frame.
26. Any year bumper is okay. All seams on the bumper can be welded but no adding of any metal. We must be able to see inside the bumper. Bumper shocks can be modified but no more than 12” long 2” diameter.
27. You may pitch the frame by cutting the box loose, pulling down and re-welding only the seems that were cut. Do not add any metal and do not get excessive with the welds. Be reasonable. If we feel it is excessive it will not be allowed to run.
28. There is to be no painting on the frame.
29. Pre-ran cars can be pulled back down to stock position but you cannot weld anything.
30. There is no plating of any kind. Do not call and ask.
31. Rear-end swaps on 1998 and up limited to factory brackets cut off another car and welded back on. The top will be limited to 6” ¼” thick.
32. Allthread can be run through the trunk lid and floor pan but cannot go through the rails.
33. (4) pieces of #9 wire can be run from the core support to the bumper. But can not cover the radiator.
34. Factory condensers only,. They may be wired in not welding.
35. You may run wire from cage straight down to the rails in4 places.
36. Roll bars have to be straight across the roof within 3”. They can not be slanted. They may be fastened with up to 4 clamps.
37. You can run all thread in place of your shocks. It may be ran through the top and used as a body mount.
38. All rules will be strictly enforced, if it doesn’t say you can do it, then just don’t do it!
39. All car will be scoped at inspection!!
Small Cars
1. Wheelbase not to exceed 105.5". AMC's are allowed.
2. Four or six cylinders only.
3. Two wheel drive unibody only.
4. Any size tires. Black and round.
5. Bumper height Max 21" min 16"
6. Absolutely no welding on anything other than the cage, doors and trunk/lid hatch.
7. Places that the gas tank and batteries sit on cannot strengthen the car.
8. No kickers coming off anything.
9. You can not add any metal at all to strengthen the car.
10. The cars will be checked inside the fenders and the rocker panels drilled or cut.
11. Back bumpers can be run but must be welded on the bumper shocks only. Not welded to or bolted to anything.
12. Bumper shocks can be modified but cannot be over 12" long. Mac 1 1/2" material.
13. Allthread can be ran for shocks.
13. No plates added to the bumpers or anywhere's else
14. Truck has to have a 12" hole. You may tuck the trunk but quarter panels must stay up. You can beat the trunk lid down after inspection.
15. Factory type radiator, nothing home made. Radiator cannot strengthen the car.
16. Cage inside the car can have 6" gussets in the corners. Doors bars cannot go more than 6" past the doors measured where they are welded on at. Bars must be at least 6" off the floor. No material bigger than 4"x6".
17. You can run a slip shaft.
18. Trailing arms can be lengthened or shortened but no extra metal added.
19. Tie rod ends can be re-inforced with the same size reed bar.
20. Rear end protectors can be ran but stay tight to the rear and cannot strengthen the body.
21. No bars coming off back window to trunk.
24. Roll bars must be straight within 3". They may be fastened to the roof with no more than 4 clamps. They can not be welded.
25. No sub frame connectors.
26. No kickers of any kind.
27. No plates of any kind.
Mowers
1. Mower must be a factory available mower. Lawn or garden mower. No Home Made Frames!
2. No rear engine lawn mowers are allowed.
3. Engine must be factory mower engine such as briggs and stratton, Onan, Tecumseh, etc.
4. All frame modifications and frame reinforcing will be allowed.
5. Transaxles must be factory available mower transaxles but any reinforcing and/or welding of spider gears in permitted.
6. Engine bay reinforcing is permitted but must be contained inside the hood of hood and must maintain factory body lines.
7. All mowers must run factory hood and fenders. Have the hood screwed down or welded down to dash panel around drivers area. if hood is fiverglass you can make one out of sheet metal only but must be the same size as the fiberglass one.
8. Mowers must have good brakes, forward and reverse gears at the start of the heat.
9. Gas tank must be secured down and have a cap on it. Any gas at all leaking, you will be asked to shut it down.
10. Leg gaurds are mandatory and must be bolted and/or welded on from rear fender to front of foot rest or frame. Call if questions.
11. A rear bumper is permitted but is not allowed to extend more than 4" out and it must stay between the tires. No spikes, sharp edges or any pertusions allowed. Bumper can be home made with I/H beam or square tubing.
12. Regearing and changing pulleys to increase speed is permitted and encouraged.
13. Any and all drive train modifications is permitted but must stay belt driven.
14. All mower must use lawn mower type wheels, tractor treads and cut tires will be permitted but no tire chains or dual wheels will be allowed.
15. Mower decks must be removed.
16. All head lights and any other glass and plastic must be removed before you enter the pits.
17. Batteries must be removed from mower and only used to jump start the mower before the heat begins. If a pull star is used driver will not be permitted to restart engine during heat.
18. No front bumpers. You can build up the front of the frame and underneath the grill to hit with. The front of the mower must be a smooth finish for safety reasons.
19. Role over: Driver is out of the heat. Also, if a driver touches the ground with a hand or foot, driver is out of heat.
20. For safety, if a mower does roll over, drivers must stop and wait until that driver up rights his mower and gets off the track.
21. Please put your number on each side of mower or helmet so we can track the winners.
22. All ground rules will be gone over in drivers meeting before the heat.
* Keep in mind when building your mower. Safety 1st for you and the mower you are hitting
June 30th (Mod Big Cars & Minis)
Sept. 22nd King of the Bluegrass
Contact Info:
Nathan Farley 270-237-1881
Dennis Harper 270-606-1123
Nicole Baker 270-234-6861
2012 Rules (except for Semi-Stock night)
Big Cars
(New or edited rules in red font)
1. Any year sedan, wagon & Imperials! No hearses, limos or checkered cabs.
2. Helmet, seatbelt and eye protection must be worn at all times. No cut off shirts or shorts.
3. Any controversies or protests must be brought up at the drivers meeting. If it doesn’t say it you can’t do it!
4. The drivers side seatbelt must be there in working order.
5. Judges decision is final! We may reject and or all entries at any time. Cars are subject to re-inspection at any time.
6. All glass, plastic, bumper covers, trailer hitches/braces and interior must be removed before arriving at the event.
7. You may weld, wire or bolt doors, trunks and tailgates shut. 3” max wide plates. Plates cannot over lap or be doubled up. A 12” by 12” hole must be put in all trunks. Trunk lids must stay in stock location. There is no wedging allowed. You may tuck the trunk but the quarter panels must be up. The can not be beat over. After inspection you may beat the trunk lid down. You must have #9 wire in windshield area!
8. No interior seam welding will be permitted. On pre-ran cars, sheet metal can be repaired back to stock only, do not add any metal.
9. Stock type hood must be used. Hoods must be open for inspection. You can tack weld, bolt or sheet metal screw the hood back together. Sheet metal screws must point down, not up. Hoods must be secured in 4 places including the all thread. Angle iron may be used but cannot be longer than 4” max, 2 bolts in each piece of angle iron.
10. You can add up to (3) 3/8” bolts in wheel well.
11. Batteries must be removed to passenger side floor board. The battery box cannot strengthen the car in any way!
12. Original gas tank must be removed and replaced with a boat type tank. Gas tanks cannot be used to strengthen the car. Gas tank protectors can be used to wider than 24”. Must have room to get my hand between protector and where rear seat sat. If it touches you will be asked to cut it completely out.
13. You can have a roll cage surrounding the drivers compartment with an over head bar. Bars must be sheet metal to sheet metal (no down kickers). Back bar cannot be further back than where the kick panel meets where the bench sear rest starts and must be 6” off the floor. Front bar must be at least 5” from the center of the firewall. Driver door bar can be inside the door; but, passenger side bar can not. Passenger side bar must stay within inside car! The bars cannot be any bigger than 4”x6”. Side bars cannot go past firewall and must stop where the bench seat rests starts. All bars will go straight across over thru or under the steering column.
14. You can run a distributor protector, NO KICKERS!
15. You may remove the front 2 mounts and replace them with 1” all thread and a spacer. It can start at the body mount, go through the core support using the all thread for hood bolts. The spacer can be 3” in diameter max. You may re-weld the eye of the mount to the frame and a 3” washer to the bottom of the mount. You can run your all thread through a piece of 2” pipe or tubing inside the core support to protect your all thread but the tubing cannot be welded to the core support.
16. Body mounts can be removed and replaced with 1” stack of washers or puck type bushing. The bolts can be replaced with ¾” bolts. A maximum of 3” washers are allowed. Bolts must be up inside the rail not out the bottom.
17. Motor of choice. It cannot have any plates, pipes or tubing going to the frame in any way. If you do run chain, 1 per side from the mount straight down to the cradle or from the front of the head to the cradle. 3/8” chain, nothing bigger.
18. You may use rear-end of choice but it must have 5 lug axles. You can run 5 lug after market read-end. Rear-end protectors are just for the rear-end and must fir tight to the rear-end. They cannot be any higher than the top of the axe tubes.
19. You may run any after market drive shaft, transmission and oil coolers. Coolers cannot be used to strengthen the car in any way. You may run after market steering but it cannot strengthen frame or body.
20. All cars must sit level within 5” with no car sitting lower than 16” from the bottom of the bumper or higher than 21” from the bottom of the bumpers.
21. Coil Springs in the rear may be welded, wired, bolted or chained to the rear-end.
22. Can have 22” hump plates except for leaf spring cars! Leaf springs must be stock length and thickness and must stay in stock position. The shackles can be home made ¼” thick max. 5 springs plus the main with a 2” stair step front and rear. 2 clamps per front and back side, you cannot move leaf springs. You cannot change from coil to leaf.
23. You can change out the new style A arms for the old ones. The A arms can be welded solid all the way around nothing wider than 2” to weld A arms, anything bigger than that you will cut frame! No ball joint protectors.
24. Tie rod ends can be changed or reinforced. The sway bar can be removed they can be modified or switched. They cannot be welded to the frame.
25. Angles for the cross member to sit on can’t be any longer than 6” and can only be welded to the inside of the frame.
26. Any year bumper is okay. All seams on the bumper can be welded but no adding of any metal. We must be able to see inside the bumper. Bumper shocks can be modified but no more than 12” long 2” diameter.
27. You may pitch the frame by cutting the box loose, pulling down and re-welding only the seems that were cut. Do not add any metal and do not get excessive with the welds. Be reasonable. If we feel it is excessive it will not be allowed to run.
28. There is to be no painting on the frame.
29. Pre-ran cars can be pulled back down to stock position but you cannot weld anything.
30. There is no plating of any kind. Do not call and ask.
31. Rear-end swaps on 1998 and up limited to factory brackets cut off another car and welded back on. The top will be limited to 6” ¼” thick.
32. Allthread can be run through the trunk lid and floor pan but cannot go through the rails.
33. (4) pieces of #9 wire can be run from the core support to the bumper. But can not cover the radiator.
34. Factory condensers only,. They may be wired in not welding.
35. You may run wire from cage straight down to the rails in4 places.
36. Roll bars have to be straight across the roof within 3”. They can not be slanted. They may be fastened with up to 4 clamps.
37. You can run all thread in place of your shocks. It may be ran through the top and used as a body mount.
38. All rules will be strictly enforced, if it doesn’t say you can do it, then just don’t do it!
39. All car will be scoped at inspection!!
Small Cars
1. Wheelbase not to exceed 105.5". AMC's are allowed.
2. Four or six cylinders only.
3. Two wheel drive unibody only.
4. Any size tires. Black and round.
5. Bumper height Max 21" min 16"
6. Absolutely no welding on anything other than the cage, doors and trunk/lid hatch.
7. Places that the gas tank and batteries sit on cannot strengthen the car.
8. No kickers coming off anything.
9. You can not add any metal at all to strengthen the car.
10. The cars will be checked inside the fenders and the rocker panels drilled or cut.
11. Back bumpers can be run but must be welded on the bumper shocks only. Not welded to or bolted to anything.
12. Bumper shocks can be modified but cannot be over 12" long. Mac 1 1/2" material.
13. Allthread can be ran for shocks.
13. No plates added to the bumpers or anywhere's else
14. Truck has to have a 12" hole. You may tuck the trunk but quarter panels must stay up. You can beat the trunk lid down after inspection.
15. Factory type radiator, nothing home made. Radiator cannot strengthen the car.
16. Cage inside the car can have 6" gussets in the corners. Doors bars cannot go more than 6" past the doors measured where they are welded on at. Bars must be at least 6" off the floor. No material bigger than 4"x6".
17. You can run a slip shaft.
18. Trailing arms can be lengthened or shortened but no extra metal added.
19. Tie rod ends can be re-inforced with the same size reed bar.
20. Rear end protectors can be ran but stay tight to the rear and cannot strengthen the body.
21. No bars coming off back window to trunk.
24. Roll bars must be straight within 3". They may be fastened to the roof with no more than 4 clamps. They can not be welded.
25. No sub frame connectors.
26. No kickers of any kind.
27. No plates of any kind.
Mowers
1. Mower must be a factory available mower. Lawn or garden mower. No Home Made Frames!
2. No rear engine lawn mowers are allowed.
3. Engine must be factory mower engine such as briggs and stratton, Onan, Tecumseh, etc.
4. All frame modifications and frame reinforcing will be allowed.
5. Transaxles must be factory available mower transaxles but any reinforcing and/or welding of spider gears in permitted.
6. Engine bay reinforcing is permitted but must be contained inside the hood of hood and must maintain factory body lines.
7. All mowers must run factory hood and fenders. Have the hood screwed down or welded down to dash panel around drivers area. if hood is fiverglass you can make one out of sheet metal only but must be the same size as the fiberglass one.
8. Mowers must have good brakes, forward and reverse gears at the start of the heat.
9. Gas tank must be secured down and have a cap on it. Any gas at all leaking, you will be asked to shut it down.
10. Leg gaurds are mandatory and must be bolted and/or welded on from rear fender to front of foot rest or frame. Call if questions.
11. A rear bumper is permitted but is not allowed to extend more than 4" out and it must stay between the tires. No spikes, sharp edges or any pertusions allowed. Bumper can be home made with I/H beam or square tubing.
12. Regearing and changing pulleys to increase speed is permitted and encouraged.
13. Any and all drive train modifications is permitted but must stay belt driven.
14. All mower must use lawn mower type wheels, tractor treads and cut tires will be permitted but no tire chains or dual wheels will be allowed.
15. Mower decks must be removed.
16. All head lights and any other glass and plastic must be removed before you enter the pits.
17. Batteries must be removed from mower and only used to jump start the mower before the heat begins. If a pull star is used driver will not be permitted to restart engine during heat.
18. No front bumpers. You can build up the front of the frame and underneath the grill to hit with. The front of the mower must be a smooth finish for safety reasons.
19. Role over: Driver is out of the heat. Also, if a driver touches the ground with a hand or foot, driver is out of heat.
20. For safety, if a mower does roll over, drivers must stop and wait until that driver up rights his mower and gets off the track.
21. Please put your number on each side of mower or helmet so we can track the winners.
22. All ground rules will be gone over in drivers meeting before the heat.
* Keep in mind when building your mower. Safety 1st for you and the mower you are hitting
